The first half of my Palawan adventure had elicited mixed results, but I left Puerto Princesa finally feeling like I’d turned a corner, thanks in no small part to the sociable atmosphere at 100% Café Moto. After over two weeks of off-the-beaten-path travelling, it had been reassuring to meet other travellers and reacquaint myself with the rhythms of conversation – luckily this was a trend that was set to continue in El Nido.

Most travellers opt to fly into Palawan, either directly to the main city of Puerto Princesa, to beautiful El Nido or even to Coron where you can book an onwards island-hopping tour to make your way to the main island in style. Ever the fan of slow travel, I decided to arrive via the lesser-known ferry, which departs from Manila once every 10 days to make the 26-hour journey. As a start to my Palawan adventure, things could only get better.

As I unfold myself from the bus seat I’ve spent the last 12 hours crammed into and cajole my legs down the high street one step at a time, I’m struck by just how quiet Sagada is. Quieter than the grave, in fact, which is somewhat fitting for a village that is home to one of the world’s most uniquely fascinating ‘burial’ practices.

Sagada might just be the last vestige of the South East Asia backpacking scene. This quiet little village is known for its stunning limestone caves, fruit desserts and, of course, its famous hanging coffins.