Three Days in Sagada in the Philippines’ Mountain Province

Sagada might just be the last vestige of the South East Asia backpacking scene. This quiet little village is known for its stunning limestone caves, fruit desserts and, of course, its famous hanging coffins.

A stronghold in the mountains surrounded by vicious limestone peaks, Sagada was the only village in the province to hold out against the Spanish invasion in the 16th century. That fierce sense of independence and cultural identity permeates the village today – the villagers refer to the rest of the Filipino population as ‘lowlanders’ and stubbornly ignore sanctions impressed on them by the Filipino government.

On its face, Sagada is a sleepy little village hiding itself away from the world but get under its skin and you’ll find that there’s so much to do here. We recommend spending at least five days here to really get a sense of the place and see all it has to offer but, with so much to see and do in the Philippines, you’re likely to be on a tight schedule so we’ve crammed the highlights into an action-packed three-day itinerary.

When to Visit

It's best to visit Sagada during the shoulder months when the weather is mild yet cool enough for plenty of walking. During the week you’ll find the village peacefully quiet with few other tourists wandering in and out of the shops on the high street, but come the weekend, Sagada is awash with domestic visitors who flock to the village because they’re curious to experience ‘cold weather’ (a relative term!). Try to plan for a weekday visit, if you can.

Where to Stay

Agape Log Cabin

There is no shortage of places to stay in Sagada and you don’t even have to book in advance. Just turn up and head to the tourist office – which you need to register at when you arrive in Sagada anyway (100 pesos / £1.40) - and they’ll help you choose your accommodation. We stayed at Agape Log Cabin and enjoyed a quiet few days getting back to basics, and we fully intend to stay there again.

How to Get There

Buses run to Sagada on a daily basis from Quezon City in Manila, leaving in the evenings. The journey time is at least 12 hours, so make sure you’re stocked up on snacks and you have a good book. We recommend booking your tickets through 12Go. If you’re planning to spend slightly longer exploring Northern Luzon then you can also pick up the bus at Baguio City, travel time around five hours. There are also plenty of minivans and jeepneys travelling between neighbouring Banaue and Sagada (three hours).

Day One: Hanging Coffins and the Paytokan Trail

Not all of the coffins hang from the side of the cliffs - some are slotted into caves.

The number one reason for visiting Sagada is to see its famous hanging coffins suspended from the rugged limestone cliffs. If you’re lucky enough not to get lost in the valley, you can see them yourself for the paltry entrance fee of 10 pesos (14p) but to get the most out of your visit, we really recommend hiring a guide. You’ll get a much more personal experience and it’s a great way to support the local economy.

We booked onto the Paytokan Trail (1,000 pesos / £13.50), which is actually a great introduction to life in Sagada and gives you a nice overview of what the place is about; ideal for your first day here. The tour includes a visit to the Anglican Church and cemetery, the ‘adventure trail’ through Echo Valley, a stop at a local coffee plantation, a visit to the gorgeous Bokong falls and, of course, the hanging coffins themselves which are undoubtedly the highlight. The reason the people of Sagada (or Ganduyan as it was originally called) ‘buried’ their dead on the sides of the cliffs has been lost to time and tradition, but ask around and every villager seems to have their own theory. Perhaps they hoisted them high into the sky so that they could be closer to their gods, or perhaps it was so that their spirits could watch over the village. Others believe simply that the sheer amount of effort required to lay their loved ones to rest high in the sky on bolts hand drilled into the limestone is a demonstration of the reverence with which they hold them.

Bokong Falls in Sagada

Once you’ve capped off your adventure with some cliff jumping into the refreshing Bokong Falls, head back into town to find out more about the culture and history of Sagada. The Ganduyan Museum and Masferre Photograph’s [sic] are perfect accompaniments to each other. At the former you can see cultural artefacts from the Igorot people – including garments, spears and headhunting shields – and at the latter you can see photographs of them in use in the 1930s, with the surrounding landscape unrecognisable from what it is today. Masferre Photograph’s is actually on the way back to town from Bokong Falls, so just let your guide know if you want to stop off there.

At the Ganduyan Museum, make sure to chat to the owner Lester as he is a font of knowledge and an entertaining host. He was keen to impress on us just one too many times for comfort that his people no longer practice headhunting!

For an early dinner head south of town to Gaia Café, Sagada’s only 100% vegetarian restaurant. The view over the rice terraces is spectacular and the plant-based Gaia Sandwich is particularly good. On your way there you’ll pass the Ambasing Bus Ruin, which is worth a visit. There’s a concrete wall separating it from the road, but you can squeeze around the side.

Day Two: Rock Climbing and Caving

The best breakfast in town - Hiker’s Delight at Yoghurt House

Today is going to be a big day, so load up on calories at Yoghurt House, the best breakfast joint in town. We particularly recommend the Hiker’s Delight – fried eggs; toast; a blueberry, banana and cream pancake; and your choice of coffee or tea.

Topping out on the 6a at Paytokan Wall, Sagada

Spend the morning rock climbing at Paytokan Wall, Sagada’s only climbing crag. If you visited the hanging coffins yesterday, you will have passed the crag on the way in. Don’t worry if you don’t have your gear with you – ropes, shoes, harnesses, helmets, quickdraws and belay devices are included in the price, which is just 500 pesos (£6.80) to climb for as long as you like. The crag has a modest three routes (5c, 6a and 6b) but the quality of the climbing is fantastic, and the limestone has seen little traffic so is almost entirely free of polish.

Warm up on the 5c (top rope only) which is a long route that climaxes in a grotto before the final push to the chains. The 6a is an exhilarating route with an exceptionally high first bolt (don’t worry, there are intermediary safety points you can clip into) and sustained climbing all the way to the chains, which Ryan frustratingly pumped out on trying to clip! The 6b, though, is the headline feature on this wall and an absolutely fantastic climb. It’s starts with good handholds up a meandering crack system only to spit you out onto a flat rockface with finger pockets and no feet. If you can make it past that, it culminates in a committing series of moves requiring you to cut loose up over a small roof to the chains. Ryan ranks this in his top five outdoor routes!

Now that the adrenaline is flowing and you’ve got some ascents under your harness, it’s time to descend into the earth. Sagada is a warren of caves and there are plenty to choose from depending on how long you’ve spent climbing. For the ultimate caving adventure, enter Lumiang Cave and scramble, slither and squeeze your way over half a kilometre through the earth with nothing but a kerosene lamp to light your way. Provided you don’t get lost, you’ll emerge from Sumaguing Cave, with its otherworldly flowstone formations, three to four hours later. If you’re pushed for time, it’s possible to explore just one of these caves, and doing so is usually slightly more civilsed than squirming your way between them! Always hire a guide and don’t attempt the Cave Connection during the rainy season.

Day Three: Marlboro Hill and Café Hopping

The stunning sunrise and cloud inversions from Marlboro Hill

Hopefully you got a good night’s sleep after your adrenaline-packed day of limestone adventure because you’re going to be meeting your guide at around 4am this morning if you want to catch the sunrise from Marlboro Hill!

After a short transfer to the trailhead, you’ll hike through the woods for about 45 minutes by torchlight. It’s a relatively easy walk and the summit will creep up on you faster than you expect. Grab a coffee from one of the enterprising locals and wait for the sun to creep up over the hills. As the sky turns from night to dawn, you’ll just about be able to make out a blanket of clouds smothering the valleys below. When the sun soon follows, you’ll be treated to the most spectacular cloud inversions in panorama as you feel the resentment of that early morning alarm fade away.

The copper-tinged Blue Soil Hills of Sagada

Once you’ve filled your SD card up with photos to dine out on for the next six months, it’s time to set out on the mountain traverse to the Blue Soil Hills. This is a really beautiful walk across rolling grassy hills and through forests draped in early morning mist. The Blue Soil Hills get their name from the oxidised copper in the soil which turns the earth an aqua blue and, while they’re probably not worth a visit in themselves, they make for a nice way to cap off an early morning walk across the mountain terrain.

The indulgent lava cake at Sagada Brew

Catch a ride back to the village and you should be arriving just as the cafés are opening, which is convenient because you’ve got some serious café hopping to end your trip with. Sagada is famous for its desserts – particularly its yoghurt and its lemon pie – and there are enough cafes here for you to stay a week and never visit the same place twice. For hands down the best coffee in town, stop by Bana’s Coffee before heading to the primary destination for yoghurt – Marie’s Yoghurt Place. Sticking with eponymous naming conventions, Sagada Lemon Pie House is the best place for (you guessed it) lemon pie or if you’re looking for something a little more chocolatey, the lava cake at Sagada Brew is super indulgent. Make sure you load up, because if you’re on the 3pm bus back to Manila, it’s going to be a long one…